Zara nails the party season

It's that time of the year for all-black and bling-bling.

There is still a month to go for Holidays. But the moment we cleaned the last trace of make-up from our Halloween costume and place a bouquet at the cemetery on November 1st, the kick off for Christmas was on. Starbucks serves coffee in red cups, Burberry windows are filled with gift boxes, supermarkets show all types of decorations and even the Chinese lady selling those Halloween customes was announcing the Christmas stuff they would be selling in a few days. I've been asked to make a wish list and have to deal with jokes like Santa has retired to an island in Cambodia and he has outsourced the gift business.

Everything seems to get on the Christmas mood and Zara delights us with a party editorial which makes me to desire going out and dancing the whole night, even though I know that I will probably stay at home 'cause I have to revise Santa's job in order to ensure family gets their presents. Specially I'm dying for that satin pleated skirt paired with that pleated shiny top. It's not overdone. It's very chic and a bit rock.

Pictures: Zara.

11:11. Singles' Day

or how to celebrate shopping.

 

November 11th (11:11 or Double 11) is known in China as Singles' Day. Now there are only a few hours to go and the worthy discounts are already gone. It's not easy to explain you how much importance Chinese people give to this date. I only can tell you that shopping is a national sport and from here I dare to say that maybe in a few years 11:11 will be a national holiday. Et voilà! Many people can expend the day just shopping, instead of slipping away from their desks to go shopping and hiding from their bosses who probably will be also shopping. Yeah, that was the reality the whole day. Many stores in Shanghai in one of the most luxury areas looked like the most messy flea market and by lunch time was almost impossible to find a single t-shirt perfectly folded on a shelf.

On the online world, the most avid ones were saving items in the shopping cart the days before 11:11. Some brands offered a pre-sale in which many products reached the sign "Out of Stock" two weeks before Singles' Day. A bright movement which help you avoid technical problems on the website and get prepared for all the logistics. Alibaba sales reach billions year after year each Double 11.

So the big discounts were online and Alibaba with their platforms such as T-Mall or Taobao has collected most of the traffic of crazy and anxious shoppers. E-commerce in China is a great and very developed business. Everyday you get new apps. I'm still fascinated with WeChat Wallet. If I link this e-wallet to my bank card I can make a huge variety of payments from my cell (clothes from Zara, organic veggies, etc.) and even send money to any friend within WeChat. Amazing, isn't it?

When Coffee Matters

¿Cuánta importancia le dais al café de la mañana?  No me refiero a la cantidad de tazas que os podáis tomar, sino a su sabor. Una reflexión similar rondaba por la cabeza de Leandro (Nano para quienes le conocemos de toda la vida) desde hacía tiempo. Después de unos cuantos oficios más o menos del gusto, entró en el mundo del barista. Sí, ese ser que es como tu diosito del café y a quien te encomiendas cada mañana.

Tras participar en algún concurso de café que otro se le iluminó la bombilla de las ideas y decidió que su ciudad, Avilés (Asturias), se iba a enterar de lo que era un buen café. Nada de torrefacto ni sabor a requemado tras calentar la misma leche millones de veces. (Los dos compartimos este odio por el café mal puesto.) En su lugar, diferentes variedades y orígenes catados con el mayor de los cuidados. Kenia, Etiopía, Honduras, etc. y así comienza la vuelta al mundo que nos podemos dar sin salir de The Coffeest. Así es como bautizó Nano a su mini-café-deli en pleno mercado de abastos de Avilés. La plaza es una fiesta de olores: flores, fruta, verdura, carne, pescado y café.

Ahora es mi proveedor de café número 1 y me he traído a Shanghai mis orígenes favoritos, Etiopía y Kenia, a los que sumé Honduras tras quedar cautivada por ese cierto toque a chocolate. Lástima que el equipaje no dé para más porque de los dos primeros ya no queda ni rastro y a Honduras le restan pocas semanas.

Con esto de que Asturias está de moda. De la que os pasáis por Avilés a visitar el Centro Nienmeyer, ya no tenéis excusa para no hacer una visita a Leandro de mi parte. Por cierto, el mercado y sus alrededores son preciosos y el deli The Coffeest es chulísimo. Y si no os gusta el café, no os preocupéis porque encontraréis unos tés riquísimos y el súper popular matcha. ¡Ah! Y os podéis tomar dos o tres cafés diferentes sin miedo porque dormiréis como auténticos bebés por la noche. Palabra de amante del café.

How important is your morning coffee for you? I’m not talking about the amount of cups you’re able to drink, but about its taste. A similar reflection had been wandering around Leandro’s mind (aka Nano) for a long time. After going through more or less likeable jobs, he got into the baristas world. Yes, that person who is like your little god for coffee and who you commend to every morning.

After participating in some coffee contest, the light bulb with ideas turned on in his head and he decided that his city, Avilés (Asturias), was going to know what a good coffee was. Nothing of high roast nor that overdone taste after heating the same milk zillions of times. (Both of us share that hate for a bad-served coffee). Instead of this, several varieties and origins tasted with the biggest cares. Kenia, Ethiopia, Honduras, etc. and that's how we start the world tour without steping out of The Coffeest.  This is the name that Nano baptized his mini-cafe-deli in the fresh market in Avilés. This market place is a party of scents: flowers, fruit, veggies, meat, fish and coffee.

Now he's my coffee vendor number 1 and I've brought to Shanghai my favorite origins, Ethiopia and Kenya, to which I added Honduras after being captivated by certain touch of chocolate. It's a shame that there is no more room in my luggage 'cause there is no trace of the first two left and Honduras will run out in a few weeks.

With this fashion thing about Asturias, when you're in Avilés for visiting Nienmeyer Centre, you have no excuse to pay a visit to Leandro on my behalf. Indeed, the fresh market and its area are beautiful and The Coffeest deli is very cute. And if you don't like coffee, don't worry 'cause you'll find delicious teas and the super popular matcha. Ah! And you can have two or three different coffees with no fear to insomnia because you'll sleep like real babies during the night. Upon coffee lover word.

Rentrée

Basics for holidays in Northern Spain

He vuelto. Mi pequeña Ánxela ocupa todo mi tiempo y ella es la razón de este abandono absoluto -una buena razón-. En estos casi cuatro meses he intentado estar al día entre cambio de pañal y toma. Se ha ido la primavera y casi el verano, aunque en Shanghai las altas temperaturas todavía se quedarán durante casi dos meses más. Hemos tenido visita familiar y hemos ido a ver a la familia. En Galicia me he atiborrado de pulpo á feira, sardinas, pimientos y demás placeres culinarios. No he disfrutado mucho de la playa porque un verano en el norte sigue siendo fresquito a pesar del cambio climático; pero ha quedado compensado con el cielo azul que avistaba desde la ventana. No me he separado de mis alpargatas, mi marinièr y mis Levi's 501 vintage comprados en Tokio. He usado mi cazadora de cuero más que en todo el año (cosas del por si refresca). Y me autoregalé unas Wayfarer porque sí.

Spots from holidays (clockwise): San Pedro (Cangas de Foz); bar for locals and tourists in Redes; sardines grilled at home; Redes port.

Ahora he vuelto a la calurosa y húmeda Shanghai con las pilas puestas para una rentrée que llega en menos de un mes. Empiezo como la nueva temporada. El armario no sé si está lo suficientemente preparado porque pensar en unas botas y un abrigo con los treinta y tantos grados que están cayendo ahí fuera... no apetece. Sigo con la esperanza de re-utilizar muchas cosas de temporadas anteriores. En los últimos meses me he asegurado de hacerme con nuevos modelos de pantalones vaqueros: los Levi's de Tokio y unos anchos; no me he atrevido con los de campana. Las camisas seguirán siendo uno de mis básicos; agradables para las cálidas temperaturas y prácticas para eso de la crianza natural. Me anudaré lazos al cuello. Me pondré tops sobre camisas a lo Miu Miu. Los tacones anchos continúan en su versión más abuela que nunca y es genial porque nos evitamos unos cuantos desequilibrios... a pesar de que al mundo masculino no les hacen ninguna gracia... los zapatos abueliles. Me moveré en escala de grises, porque combina con el carrito de mi niña y también facilita el vestirse cada mañana.

Grannie shoes

Nos vemos pronto por aquí con más aventuras fashionistas y curiosidades varias.

Spots from holidays (clockwise): main square and tiny alley in Redes; San Pedro (Cangas de Foz); Redes port.

I'm back. My little Ánxela occupies all my time and she is the reason of abandonying you absolutely for such long time -it's a good reason-. During these four months I've tried to be updated between changing diapers and feeding. Spring has gone and summer is almost done, though in Shanghai high temperatures will stay for nearly two months more. We've had a family visit and we've been to see them as well. In Galicia I've stuffed myself with typical octopus tapa, sardines, small green peppers and other culinary delicacies. I haven't enjoyed beach too much 'cause summer in the north is chilly yet despite the climate change; but it's balanced out with the blue sky I could spot from my window. I've been attached to my espadrilles, my mariniér and my vintage Levi's 501 bought in Tokyo. I've worn my leather birker jacket more than the rest of the year (something about in case gets chilly). And I gifted myself with a pair of Wayfarer because why not.

All about gray

Now I'm back to sizzling and damp Shanghai with my batteries charged for a rentrée that will arrived in less than one month. I start like the new coming season. I don't know whether my closet is ready enough 'cause I don't fancy to think about boots and coat when there are thirthy something degrees out there. I keep the hope in re-using many things from past seasons. During the last months I made sure of acquiring new cuts for jeans: Levi's from Tokyo and a pair of wide-leg pants; I haven't dared with flared-legs yet. Shirts will keep being one of my basics; nice for warm temperatures and practical for breastfeeding. I'll tie ribbons to my neck. I'll wear tops over shirts à la Miu Miu. Wide heels stay in their most grannie version ever and it's great because we avoid some imbalances... though the boys side is not delighted at all... by grannie's shoes. I'll move among a gray scale, because it perfectly pairs with my baby's stroller and also makes easier to create an outfit every morning.

Miu Miu Fall 2015

We'll see you around soon with more fashionista adventures and more curiosities.

Chloé (up) and Zara Fall 2015 campaigns

Gucci Fall 2015 campaign

 Pictures: Elle, Miu Miu, Chloé, Zara and Gucci; spots from holidays are mine.

Ugly shoes stay with us

Tevas x Opening Ceremony

Las Birkenstock fueron el éxito del verano pasado y este parece que no nos van a dejar. Pero hay otro modelo de sandalias de guiri que lleva varias temporadas apareciendo a poquitos y parece que ésta es la definitiva. Son las Tevas. Las llevamos en los 90, sobre todo si nos rodeábamos de amigos surferos o apasionados del montañismo. Después se asentaron en el entorno de los perro-flauta y dejaron de ser cool en el mundo fashionista.

¿Y por qué 2015 va a ser su año? Nuestro ojo ya está más que entrenado para el feismo. Además, Tevas lanza su segunda colaboración con Opening Ceremony, meca de lo cool y raro en el mundo fashionista, el próximo 5 de mayo. Arrasarán. Es interesante el análisis que hacen de la evolución de este estilo en su blog.

Quizás en Europa seamos un poco clásicos y nos cueste ponernos estas plataformas con velcro, pero yo ya estoy viendo el éxito en Hong Kong, Tokio o Seúl. Pues bienvenido sea. Un poco de variedad ante tanta fiebre 70's nos dará un respiro de aire fresco.

Birkenstock were last summer success and it seems that they are still on for this summer. But there is other style of old-fashioned tourist sandals that has been showing up little by little for several seasons and it seems that this is the definitive one. They are Tevas. We were them in the 90's, mostly if we were among surfer friends or mountaineering enthusiasts. After that they settled around the modern hippies and stopped being cool within the fashionista world.

And why 2015 is going to be their year? Our eye is already well-trained for ugliness. Furthermore, Tevas is launching their second collaboration with Opening Ceremony, mecca of coolness and oddity in the fashionista world, on May 5th. They'll triumph. It's interesting the analysis they do on their blog about the evolution of this style.

In Europe we may be a little bit classic and it may be hard for us to wear this platforms with velcro, but I'm already seeing their success in Hong Kong, Tokyo or Seoul. It's very welcomed. A little bit of variety in front of the 70's fever will give us a break of fresh air.

Tevas x Opening Ceremony.

Pictures: Opening Ceremony.

Get your raincoat on...

... and go to sing in the rain!

No me gusta la lluvia. La odio. Parece que hay temporadas que todos los diseñadores se alían contra nuestra persona y no es guay prepararse para la lluvia. En esta primavera estamos de suerte. Hay chubasqueros para todos los gustos, desde el más puro estilo capitán Pescanova al PVC transparente, ideal para combinar con esos paraguas de vistas panorámicas que compro en Japón en cada una de mis visitas.

I don't like the rain. I hate it. It seems that some seasons all designers form an alliance against our persona and it's not cool to get ready for rain. This spring we are lucky. There are raincoats for all tastes, from the most authentic sea dog style to the transparent PVC, perfect to pair with those panoramic-viewed umbrellas which I acquired in Japan in every of my visits.

Balenciaga

Belstaff

Dolce & Gabbana

Hunter Original

Hunter Original

J. Crew

T by Alexander Wang

Uterqüe

Zara

Pictures: Net-a-porter, My Theresa, Lane Crawford, Zara, Uterqüe, Elle.es, Imagine my shoe, Athens street style, Fabsugar.com, Harpersbazaar.com, Who What Wear, Linasoderstrom.freshnet.com.

Shoes to make a better day

Charlotte Olympia sandals will work for days that look like a Monday!

Charlotte Olympia Rachera sandals, COS trench coat, Saloni cropped top, Sonia Rykiel jeans, Loewe Circle bag and Marni necklace.

Estas sandalias de ante trenzado de Charlotte Olympia son mi hallazgo de la semana. Tienen todas las posibilidades que queramos darles: vaqueros, vestidos, culottes, faldas, minis, etc. En base a esta obra de artesanía del calzado he escogido los demás elementos. Quien no se atreva con un crop top, siempre podemos ir a por una simple camiseta. Los vaqueros son de campana, como dicta la temporada, pero al tobillo. Si renegáis de esta fiebre 70's hasta el infinito y más allá, siempre nos quedan unos boyfriend como alternativa. Es un look donde los complementos cobran toda la fuerza a través de su colorido... porque va siendo hora de despojarnos del mono-tono invernal, ¿o no?

These Charlotte Olympia braided-suede sandals are this week's discovery. They meet all the possibilities we want to give them: jeans, dresses, culottes, skirts, minis, etc. Based on this footwear artisanal work, I've picked the rest of the pieces. Who does not dare with a crop top, always can go for a simple tee. Jeans are flared-leg, as this season imposes, but ankle-length. If you repudiate this 70's fever to infinity and beyond, you still have a pair of boyfriend jeans as an alternative. This is a look where accessories get all the power thanks to their color... 'cause it's time to get rid of that winter mono-shades, isn't it?

Pictures: Charlotte Olympia, COS, Net-a-porter, Loewe and Marni.

Where to pee in Shanghai

A guide of toilets and restrooms to survive a whole day on the Shanghainese streets.

A algunos os puede parecer una tontería pero cuando llevas más de tres horas en las calles de esta mega-ciudad, las ganas de pipí se presentan y, dependiendo de en qué zona te encuentres las dificultades para mear a salvo pueden ser unas cuantas y hasta cortarte el chorrito de orina. Llevaba un año con la idea de hacer una guía sobre los inodoros, pero no llegaba el momento. A tres días de salir de cuentas del embarazo, creo que es la ocasión para ponerlo por escrito. Creedme, en estos 9 meses mi capacidad investigadora sobre baños en Shanghai ha mejorado proporcionalmente al tamaño de mi barriga y a las ganas de pipí que ahora se presentan hasta con frecuencias de 20 y 30 minutos.

En primer lugar debéis saber que el retrete tradicional chino sigue siendo el de agujero, el de agacharse. Sí, ese que como tengas que hacer aguas mayores más vale que tengas tus piernas en forma. Y Shanghai no podía ser menos. Los baños públicos son mayoritariamente de este estilo. Y en cuanto te alejas unos ocho kilómetros del centro, es decir, zonas habitadas por extranjeros, los centros comerciales priorizan en sus W. C. el estilo chino; lo más probable es que el retrete occidental esté ocupado con los utensilios de limpieza o simplemente cerrado a cal y canto. Además, estos rincones "íntimos" sirven como sala de fumadores y la mezcla entre olor a tabaco rancio, lejía de dudosa calidad y meos es para entrar con mascarilla.

En segundo lugar, el otro elemento de obligado conocimiento es la AYI (literalmente significa "tía"). Este país no funcionaría sin el ejército de ayis. Ella es la señora de la limpieza, la asistenta en casa, la cuidadora de los niños, etc. Hay una categoría de ayi que consiste en dar servicio 24/7 en los baños. Todos los chinos tienen desarrollada tal dependencia de esta figura que hay quien espera que hasta le limpie el culo.

Aclarados estos dos aspectos, aquí os dejo una serie de consejos para diferentes situaciones que os encontraréis en Shanghai sin importar si vivís aquí o venís de turismo o por trabajo.

Para guiris

Esto nos deja en el templo del Budha de Jade, en el Yu Yuan Garden y en la calle peatonal Nanjing East Road. Si podéis, salid de casa/hotel con los deberes hechos. Hay baños, pero de agujero. Son lugares tan concurridos por el turismo nacional que la limpieza brilla por su ausencia. La intimidad tampoco va con ellos, así que no os sorprendáis si entráis al servicio y os encontráis a una señora agachada apuntando al agujero. La papelera siempre está a rebosar porque sólo los excrementos van al hoyo. Huele muy mal porque cagan lo que comen... no entiendo ese afán por echarle pimiento de Sichuan a todo. Hay sólo una ayi que entre sorbo de té y conversación en el WeChat se acuerda de que tiene que hacer su trabajo. El suelo está siempre mojado porque no saben usar el cubo de la fregona... ésta se escurre con la mano. Los usuarios del baño se lavan las manos y después salpican todo el suelo con el agua que les sobra. Además, si hay una ayi (con su cuarto para los utensilios y todo), ¿para qué vamos a molestarnos en poner en práctica unas mínimas normas de limpieza y civismo? Eso sí, después salen todos con una cara de asco del baño que ni os imagináis.

No sé si esto mejorará. En los más de dos años que llevo viviendo en Shanghai no he visto ningún cambio. Sólo me queda un poco de esperanza para la calle peatonal Nanjing East Road. Justo al lado están terminando unas galerías Daimaru, un centro comercial de lujo que espero que tenga una cuadrilla de ayis bien formadas para terminar con todos los descuidos higiénicos de cada visitante.

Paseo por el Bund

Si sólo vais en plan turista, acabaréis en los baños públicos. ERROR. Para evitarlo, os estoy contando todo esto. En esta zona con vistas al río Huangpu y al distrito financiero los restaurantes más chic se superponen escondidos en los edificios que bordean el paseo. Algunos de estos tienen el baño fuera, es decir, que se puede acceder desde la calle sin tener que simular que se tiene una reserva y dirigirse a la barra como si fuésemos a tomar algo. Uno de ellos es el número 22. En la quinta planta se encuentra el restaurante español El Willy y a los baños se accede bajando una escalera a la izquierda de la entrada a este obligado de la cocina española en Shanghai. Nunca hay nadie y están impresionantemente limpios, cuidados, con papel, toallas para las manos y hasta crema hidratante.

El edificio de Five on the Bund (Guandong Lu, 20) presenta el mismo sistema. El restaurante M on the Bund en la séptima planta tiene los baños en el lado opuesto al comedor, así que es fácil acceder sin ser cliente.

House of Roosevelt también nos puede salvar de un apuro y un apretón. Se encuentra en el número 27 del paseo. 

Los hoteles Waldorf Astoria y el Península son una apuesta segura y no os sintáis intimidados por los nombres. Si un chino al que el aliento le huele a ajo entra con sus Crocs, su cinturón LV y su chaqueta Moncler, ¿por qué no vais a hacerlo vosotros?

Najing West Road

El paraíso de las compras. Llevad la cartera preparada porque aquí todo está más caro que en cualquiera de nuestros respectivos países de origen. Aquí la regla es: la limpieza y cuidado del baño del centro comercial son directamente proporcionales al nivel de lujo de las marcas que se encuentran en él albergadas. Fácil, ¿no?

Rèel. Es japonés y no hace falta decir más. Limpísimo y con ayi permanente que no juega con el móvil.

Kerry Center. Es el más nuevo de la calle. Emana lujo desde el primer día y tiene que hacerle la competencia al japonés de enfrente. Me encanta esa rivalidad China-Japón. Los segundos siempre salen ganando en el tema que hoy tocamos.

Plaza 66. Los baños aquí tienen una antesala con sofás. Ahí es habitual encontrarte con maridos/novios rodeados de bolsas, durmiendo y jugando mientras cargan el móvil. Sus partenaires siguen haciendo acopio en Louis Vuitton, Prada, Hermès, Dolce & Gabbana, etc.

Citic Square. Con marcas como Chloé, Max Mara o Jil Sander como principal reclamo los baños deberían estar impolutos. Sin embargo, yo los encuadraría en la segunda línea, por debajo de los tres centros comerciales anteriores. Hay un ligero olor a tabaco que no acabo de entender.

En el resto de Nanjing West Road hacia People's Square los baños en centros comerciales y galerías con restaurantes son toda una aventura. Mejor entrar de puntillas y con mascarilla. Sólo se salva la tienda de inodoros Kohler, pero no podría ser menos. Preparaos para retretes con millones de botones.

De Xintiandi a Huaihai Lu

Xintiandi es muy muy turístico pero, de nuevo, los centros comerciales son la salvación. Lane Crawford en Times Square y K11 se dejan querer y normalmente no hay sorpresas. Xintiandi Style está demasiado colonizado por locales y adictos al tabaco, así que es mejor evitarlo.

Si continuamos por Huaihai Lu hacia el oeste es mejor haber hecho los deberes en Xintiandi, porque no encontrarás nada decente hasta llegar al IAPM, flanqueado por un Prada gigante y un Gucci de tamaño similar. Aquí los baños están a la altura de los mejores de Nanjing West Road, todo gracias al ejército de ayis. 

Y este es un resumen para las paradas técnicas y de urgencia en un día en las calles de Shanghai (del lado de Puxi). Me he dejado alguno por el camino porque o no es de fácil localización o sólo iréis si estáis en el restaurante al que pertenece. Eso sí, si consideráis alguno crucial que no haya mencionado, por favor, compartidlo.

Some of you might be see it as a silly thought, but when you've been out in the streets of this mega-city for more than three hours, you feel like peeing and, depending on which area you are located the difficulties may be a few and even make the urine stream got cut. It's been a year with the idea of writing a guide about toilets around my mind, but I didn't find that moment. Three days left for my pregnancy due date and I think that this is the time to put into words. Believe me, during these 9 months my investigative ability on Shanghai restrooms has improved proportionally to the size of my baby bump and the piss feeling that now comes every 20 or 30 minutes.

First of all, you must know that Chinese traditional lavatory is still the one with the whole on the floor, the one you need to squat. Yes, that one that if you need to poop you'd better have your legs in good shape. And Shanghai is not less. Public toilets are mostly like this. And once you're a 8 kilometres away from downtown, meaning, where we foreigners live, shopping malls prioritize the Chinese style in their restrooms; the western style toilet is likely to be occupied by the cleaning service tools or just shut down. Furthermore, these "intimate" retreats work as smoking room and the mix among rancid tobacco smell, uncertain quality bleach and piss is made to enter wearing a mask.

Second, other point you must know is AYI (it means "aunt" literally). This country would not work without the ayis' army. She is the cleaning lady, the maid, the nanny, etc. There is a category in the ayis' world for 24/7 cleaning service in restrooms. All Chinese people have developed such dependency on this figure that there is some who expects her to clean his/her ass.

Made clear these two aspects, here you have a series of advises for different scenarios you will face in Shanghai, no matter if you live here or you just come for sightseeing or business.

For tourists

The main spots are Jade Budha temple, Yu Yuan Garden and the pedestrian Nanjing East Road. If you can, please leave your home/hotel with your homework done. There are restrooms, but with hole. These are places so crowded by national tourists that cleanliness is conspicuous by its absence. Privacy is not their thing either, so don't get shocked if you enter the toilet and you find a Chinese lady crouched down and pointing to the hole. The bin is always filled to the brim because only excrements go inside the ground. It smells really bad because they poo what they eat... I don't understand that eagerness for putting Sichuan chili pepper on everything. There is only one ayi who remembers about her duty between a sip of tea and a chat on WeChat. The floor is always wet because they don't know how to use the mop bucket... they wring it out with their hands. Toilet users wash their hands and after that they splash all the water left on the floor. Furthermore, if there is an ayi (with her tools room and everything), why are we going to bother ourselves and put into practice a minimum of tidiness and civility rules? Yes, but after that they go out of the toilet showing a repugnance face that you cannot imagine.

I don't know whether this is going to improve. I've been living in Shanghai for more than two years and I haven't seen any change yet. I only keep a little bit of hope for pedestrian Nanjing East Road. Just in front of they are finishing construction of a Daimaru department store, a luxury shopping mal which I hope it will have a squad of well-trained ayis in order to end with all the hygienic carelessness of each visitor.

The Bund promenade

I you only are hanging around there as a tourist, you'll end up at the public toilets. MISTAKE. To avoid this, I telling you all these advises. At this area with a great view to Huangpu river and financial district the most chic restaurants are overlapped hidden in the buildings that surrounded this promenade. Some of them have restrooms outside, which means, you can access directly from the street without faking you have a reservation and heading to the bar as if you were going to order a drink. One of them is at number 22. On the fifth floor you can find the Spanish restaurant El Willy and you can get there just going down through the stair case on the left of the entrance of this must of the Spanish cuisine in Shanghai. Nobody is never there and they are magnificently clean, cared, with paper, hand towels and even hand moisture cream.

Five on the Bund building (20, Guangdong Lu) shows the same system. The restaurant M on the Bund on the seventh floor has restrooms on the opposite side to the dining room, so it's easy to get there not being a customer.

House of Roosevelt can also save us from a tight sport and a crush. It's located at number 27.

Hotels Waldorf Astoria and Peninsula are a safe bet and don't feel intimidated by those names. If a Chinese man with garlic whiff gets in wearing Crocs, an LV belt and a Moncler jacket, why not you?

Najing West Road

The shopping paradise. Get your wallet ready 'cause here in Shanghai everything is more expensive than in any of your country of origin. The rule here is: cleanliness and care of the restrooms in the shopping mall are directly proportional to the level of luxury of the labels housed in it. Easy, isn't it?

Rèel. It's Japanese and there is no need for more words. Squeaky-clean and with a permanent ayi who's not playing with her smartphone.

Kerry Center. It's the newest in the street. It exudes luxury since the first day and it has to be a competitor to the Japanese in front. I love that rivalry China-Japan. The second ones always win in this field.

Plaza 66. Toilets here have a hall with sofas. There it's common to find husbands/boyfriends surrounded by shopping bags, sleeping and playing while they charge there cells. Their partenaires keep getting supplies at Louis Vuitton, Prada, Hermès, Dolce & Gabbana, etc.

Citic Square. With brands as Chloé, Max Mara or Jil Sander as the main enticement, lavatories should be spotless. However, I would categorize them on the second level, under the three shopping malls mentioned above. There is a slightly tobacco smell which I haven't understand yet.

On the rest of Nanjing West Road heading to People's Square, restrooms in shopping malls and leisure centers are such an adventure. It's better to get in tiptoeing and wearing a mask. It's only an exception the toilet shop Kohler, but it couldn't be less than that. Get ready for W.C. with millions of buttons.

From Xintiandi to Huaihai Lu

Xintiandi is a very very touristic spot but, again, shopping malls are relief. Lane Crawford in Times Square and K11 are likely to love and usually there are no surprises. Xintiandi Style is too colonized by locals and tobacco addicted, so it's better to avoid it.

If we keep going through Huaihai Lu towards west is better to have done the homework at Xintiandi, 'cause you won't find any decent place until you arrive to IAPM, flanked by a giant Prada and a Gucci of a similar size. Here toilets are at the same level as the best ones in Nanjing West Road, everything a work of an army of ayis.

And this is a summary for the technical stops and emergencies for a day on Shanghai streets (at Puxi bank). I've left some on the way because or it's not easy to locate or you'll just end up there if you are at the restaurant that houses it. But if you consider any crucial which I haven't mentioned here, please, share it.

Pictures: Fashiontography.com, Getty Images, Google.